West Malaysia loop ride

We knew Day 3 was going to be a long ride, so we decided the night before to get an earlier start. By 7:30 a.m., we were all packed and ready, rolling out from Kuala Terengganu under a cool morning sky. Traffic was light, the air crisp, and the road ahead full of promise.

We rode past quiet bridges and wide rivers, soaking in the beauty of the morning. Eventually, we veered off to fuel up, then got back on the road toward Machang, a little town where I was hoping to try their famous nasi dagang or nasi kerabu.

It was about two hours to get there, and while the ride was pleasant, we arrived only to find the shop I had in mind was closed. So we rode around for a bit and discovered there was a morning street market going on in the town. Riding around the area we found a Chinese coffee shop called Kedai Kopi Aik Mui and decided to eat there as we had our gear with us and it would be really difficult to get street food and eat on the go. They served chicken rice, and we didn’t hold back — ordering two plates to share between the three of us. It was a lot of chicken. Just to be clear, those two plates held an entire kampung chicken! Good thing it was well past 10 a.m., so let’s just call it brunch.

After our meal, we made our way to a BHP station in Jeli, right before the climb into the Titiwangsa mountain range. We fuelled up and began the ascent. The road was beautiful, the weather cool, the traffic light — everything was lining up.

Until it wasn’t.

I felt the first few drops and hoped it was just a light drizzle. But out of nowhere, the skies opened. Heavy, pouring rain came crashing down. I had to pull over to stash my camera and bag into the panniers. A few minutes later, Tony and Alex caught up. Tony suited up in his rain gear. Alex, however, made the bold decision to ride on without his — his raincoat buried deep in his luggage. By then, he was already soaked.

We pushed on and eventually made it to a rest stop at the top of the range, where we stayed for a while. Coffee, snacks, and a break from the rain. Alex picked up a few childhood treats, including a satay fish snack that brought back memories.

While we were there, I met a fellow biker — an older gentleman, maybe in his late 60s or early 70s, from Petaling Jaya. He was on his own solo loop ride through northern Peninsular Malaysia on a BMW G310 GS. He’d already been to Kuantan and Kota Bharu and was heading to Butterworth next, then up to Perlis and down through Taiping. A simple, solo adventure — inspiring in its own quiet way.

After about an hour, the rain slowed to a light drizzle and we carried on. The descent was beautiful. The drizzle faded, the sun came out, and for a while, my gear was actually drying out. But the weather had other plans — we got hit with more showers off and on as we made our way through the flatter stretches.

By the time we arrived in Gerik, it was pouring again — and we were drenched. Thankfully, our homestay for the night was spacious, with three good rooms, a washing machine, and great ventilation. Everything we needed to clean up and dry out.

We showered, changed, and spent some time lounging around, chatting, laughing — just enjoying the simplicity of having arrived.

At some point in all that downtime, something unexpected happened. I cleaned my helmet.

I don’t even know what came over me. Tony casually suggested, “Hey, we could use this dish soap to clean our helmets — polish out all the scuffs.” And for some reason, I actually did it.

I tried it. I cleaned my helmet.

What is happening?

Yesterday I was setting up my panniers, today I’m scrubbing down my gear.

I’m a changed man.

Eventually, we decided to go for a walk. First stop — the supermarket. The fish section greeted us immediately: shiny, fresh, silky-looking fish. Giant squid. Patin, my favourite, selling for just RM7.99/kg. That’s crazy cheap.

We wandered the aisles and stumbled on some nostalgic snacks and a pack of Maggi Pedas Giler noodles — and an idea sparked: let’s cook dinner tonight.

But first, we stumbled upon a nearby street market — far more vibrant and varied than the one the night before. Stalls selling everything from tau foo fa, deep-fried chicken cutlets, yong tau foo, noodles, cut fruits, and even a full-on butcher displaying an entire cow’s head. You don’t see that every day.

After soaking it all in, we stopped for coffee at Coffee Diver — a laid-back spot with interesting local brews. We sat outside, unwound, and watched the world go by.

Then it was time to prep dinner. We picked up noodles, sausages, fish balls, veggies, and eggs — and realised we were missing seasoning. One last shop run to get garlic, stock cubes, and the essentials, and we were back in business.

Dinner was simple and satisfying. Home-style comfort food, cooked in our little homestay kitchen. Tony even hard-boiled the remaining eggs — just in case we wanted a snack later.

To end the night, we took one last stroll around the neighbourhood and popped into a place called Richiamo Coffee. Two coffees, one tea, and a doughnut later, we called it a night. A really, really good one.

Drying Off and Thinking Things Through

It’s been an interesting day.

And honestly, I’m not sure if it’s the kind of day I enjoy or don’t enjoy.

The roads were beautiful. There was almost no traffic. The bike ran great. The company? The best.

But the rain… the rain dampens the mood a little — especially when you’re riding up winding mountain roads you’ve been looking forward to all year. It felt like a shame.

And yet… the rain cooled everything down. It made the rest of the day more comfortable. So do I like it? Or don’t like it?

Maybe both.

“Rain or not, the road, the bike, the conversations, and the friendship made it all worthwhile.”

What I do know is this: the ride, the company, the little surprises — they all added up to something memorable.

Cooking dinner together was a first. Not restaurant quality, sure, but deeply satisfying. Just three friends in a quiet homestay, winding down the day with food we made ourselves. It felt real. It felt good.

I might want to do that again someday.

All in all, a fantastic day. I’m looking forward to tomorrow.