West Malaysia loop ride
Friends riding motorcycles around the West Malaysia peninsular in search of the next great adventure. Join us as we discover new people, places and experiences!
The 2025 route and destinations resources
The WMLR has always had some kind of route planning behind it — at least in the earlier editions. I used to map out the route, book accommodation ahead of time, and line up destination activities, especially when we had a larger group. It helped avoid surprises and made the logistics smooth.
But things have changed over the years.
WMLR 2024 was just Tony and me — spontaneous, flexible, and free-flowing. We had no bookings, no agenda, and we simply rode where the roads and our stomachs led us. It worked beautifully.
This year, for WMLR 2025, we added a third rider — Alex — and it’s amazing how just one more person can subtly shift the group dynamic. The spirit of spontaneity remained, but we also became more mindful of each other’s preferences, making space for a slightly more considered kind of freedom.
We still didn’t book ahead. Each day we rode with a rough idea of direction, and figured things out as we went — whether it was a place to eat, somewhere to stay, or an interesting detour worth making.
Sometimes, when the walking distance was too far, we just hopped into a Grab. Other times, we walked through back alleys, riverside paths, and random side streets, discovering new places — or familiar ones with new flavours.
This post brings together the routes we took, the eating places we stopped at, the towns and areas we explored, and even a few of the supermarkets we wandered into — because sometimes, it’s in those everyday places that we find the most unexpected joys.
Whether you’re planning your own West Malaysian ride or simply curious about ours, I hope this is both useful and enjoyable to browse through.
Here’s a look back at the ride that was WMLR 2025.
I hope this will be interesting and useful for you as you embark on your own West Malaysian adventure!
Here are the hotels we stayed at while on this ride:
- Kuantan – Charisma Hotel
- Kuala Terengganu – Homestay Cik Phia
- Gerik – Salam Homestay D’Gerik
- Bentong – Bukit Bentong Homestay (I DO NOT recommend)
- Malacca – Rustic Secret Garden Homestay
While the links I have provided are from websites like Agoda, Booking.com and AirBNB, be sure to check with other booking sites to see if you can better rates and availability.
Until the Next Ride
Each WMLR brings with it new roads, new memories, and new lessons — and WMLR 2025 was no exception.
Whether it was the joy of finding the perfect bowl of noodles, the thrill of an unexpected mountain route, or just the simple rhythm of riding in good company, this trip reminded me (again) why we do this year after year.
I hope this post has given you a helpful look at where we went, what we found, and maybe even some ideas for your own ride.
Until the next WMLR —
Ride safe, ride curious, and never underestimate a good meal or a great detour.
Day 6 – Malacca to Home: The Ride Back
In the blink of an eye, the day that always felt quite far away has arrived.
The last day of WMLR.
Thinking back, we’ve ridden through so many places — long, winding roads, sleepy towns, vibrant cities, coffee shops, rainstorms, mountain passes, and quiet kampungs.
And today… we make the journey home.
Duck Noodles to Begin
We decided to start the day a little later, since the feast from the night before still lingered.
We headed out for breakfast at 8am with one thing in mind: something local.
We had three places in mind — and the plan was to go down the list if the earlier ones weren’t available.
Sure enough, Option #1 was closed, so we made our way to the second —
Tengkera Duck Noodle, and to our delight, it was open.
It had the classic layout —
Stall at the front, tables in the middle, drinks at the back.
We ordered our duck noodles and kopi-o-kosong’s and tucked in.
It wasn’t the best duck noodles in the world…
But it was damn good, and just right for our final morning.
Back to Base, One Last Rest
After breakfast, we returned to the Airbnb for one final rest.
We agreed to head off only at 10:30am, which gave us a nice 90-minute window to wind down.
I spent that time finishing the Day 5 blog post and revising some Japanese flashcards.
Alex packed up his things.
Tony looked like he was deep in some sort of research — what exactly, I’m still not sure.
At 10:20 sharp, we were downstairs with the bikes.
A final check of the switches, lights, fans, and aircon.
Place locked. Bikes packed. Helmets on.
We were off.
Out of Malacca and Onward to Tangkak
Leaving town late morning meant we were in for a hot one —
Traffic, traffic lights, and the full blast of the sun.
But once we cleared the city, the roads began to breathe again.
The ride to Tangkak would take about an hour — and we took it easy.
The roads weren’t as spectacular as the day before, but they were still plenty enjoyable.
Flowing curves, decent surface, and just enough scenery to keep it interesting.
At a traffic light, I managed to snap a shot of Tony and Alex on their bikes.
And just after that, I spotted a road sign that read:
Belok kiri jika tiada kenderaan
Turn left if there are no vehicles.
So we did.
Not long after, we pulled into Jia Jia Bak Kut Teh — a spot Tony’s brought many friends to over the years.
Bak Kut Teh, Memories, and the Road Ahead
Jia Jia Bak Kut Teh is a solid favourite —
Rich broth, great cuts of pork, yam rice, and quick service.
We arrived early enough to snag a table with no wait.
It was a quiet, satisfying lunch —
A chance to enjoy the food, the company, and the moment.
We knew this was our final meal together.
After this, Alex would head off alone to Bukit Indah, and Tony and I would visit his grandmother’s remains at the crematorium nearby.
Over lunch, we reminisced about the trip, laughed over mishaps, and even brought up moments from previous WMLRs.
It was warm and reflective.
Just right.
Final Roads and Farewells
After lunch, Alex did a quick final pack-up, and we brought him to the nearest petrol station.
Once he was fuelled up, we waved him off.
Tony and I then made our way to the Kwang Ee Crematorium, where he paid respects to his grandmother.
The place was quiet — we had it all to ourselves.
After a while, we got back on the road. This time, we opted for the expressway to get back quickly — or at least that was the plan.
There was a lot of traffic.
Several kilometre-long sections of the expressway were closed for repairs, and that made things particularly slow.
At some point, I glanced down and saw a familiar sight:
Low fuel. Again.
By the time we rolled into the Petronas at Gelang Patah, I had 24km of range left.
Cutting it close?
Nope. Let’s call it strategic planning.
Hahaha!
After fuelling up, Tony and I exchanged our final goodbyes.
Another WMLR complete.
Reflections: Full and Grateful
“WMLR always brings us closer. Through laughter, little mishaps, and shared memories, the bond strengthens.”
It’s interesting how six days always seem long at the beginning…
and short at the end.
Especially with WMLR.
It always feels just a little too short — and yet, somehow, perfectly sized.
Looking back, we really did accomplish so much:
- Long stretches on the bike
- Taking in the roads, sights, and landscapes
- Eating great food
- Laughing, chatting, and deepening bonds
- And still finding moments of solitude and peace
For me, I wanted to write my journal, maybe sketch a little.
I managed to journal every day.
No time for sketching this round — but even so, I consider this trip a complete success.
WMLR always brings us closer.
Through laughter, little mishaps, and shared memories, the bond strengthens.
I’m deeply grateful to have the chance to ride with like-minded friends so regularly.
And I’m already wondering what the next trip might bring.
Would there be an Easy Malaysia Loop Ride someday?
We’ll see.
For now — I’m just happy to be home.
And I can finally start my diet to undo all that amazing food we devoured along the way!
Day 5 – Bentong to Malacca: Coffee, Rain, Cards, and Curry Plans
I woke up early this morning — 5am again. After a rough night in what can only be described as the homestay from hell, I decided to start my day with a shower. There was hot water — one small mercy — but the room and the house itself were still as awful as the day before.
There wasn’t anywhere comfortable to sit or write, but I still wanted to collect my thoughts, so I just spent some time outside, enjoying the cool air and reflecting. For a moment, I thought I heard rain on the roof — but it turned out to be something else. No rain. Not yet.
Soon, everyone was up and ready. Danny had joined us the night before, so today we were riding as a group of four. I decided to ride tail-end, giving me the freedom to take it slow, snap some photos if I could, and simply enjoy the road without the responsibility of navigation.
Steam Bread and Beef Noodles
Breakfast was just around the corner from where we’d explored the night before. While the others were ordering, I stepped out to take some photos. When I came back in, there was steamed bread with kaya and butter and a hot kopi-o-kosong already waiting for me.
The bread was soft, fluffy, and fragrant — a refreshing change from the usual toast.
The shop itself was old-school — one of those no-frills Malaysian coffee shops with just a noodle stall and a drink station.
Tony and Danny had pork noodles.
Alex and I went for beef noodles.
All of it was simple and super satisfying.
On the way out, I noticed a bright red fire engine parked nearby and took a few photos before we headed out for the day’s ride.
Into the Trunk Roads
Our destination today: Malacca.
We decided to avoid the expressway as much as possible, opting for the scenic trunk roads. We started off with a short stint on the highway, but once we peeled off — that’s when the ride really began.
There’s just something about trunk roads.
They’re cooler, thanks to the shade.
They’re more dynamic, with curves and elevation.
They feel more… alive.
Tony and I had around 100km of range left. Alex had just topped up the night before. We figured we’d find a petrol station along the way — but since we were off the expressway, it wouldn’t be guaranteed. I left it to Tony to sort out while I focused on the road ahead.
The Sunday Stretch
It being a Sunday morning, the roads were relatively empty for a good stretch.
There was a real sense of freedom — just us, the road, and the landscapes rolling past.
Eventually, traffic did pick up — at one point, we were stuck behind a convoy of about 10 cars and trucks. But the road opened up again, and I remember one uphill stretch with two lanes, where the corners were so wonderfully fun to ride.
Being at the back of the pack, I had no one to chase and no one to hold up.
I just rode. Slow, easy, and content.
Running Low
As we continued, I watched my fuel range tick down — from 100km to about 30km.
Then, we took a turn onto a road not marked in our GPS. I figured Tony was taking us toward a petrol station. And I was right.
We pulled into the first one, but it only offered RON 95 — which we couldn’t use on our foreign-registered bikes. So we rode a little further down the road and found another station that had RON 97.
While we were there, we saw a banana stall. Danny pointed out that earlier, a monkey had snatched some bananas from the stall. It was a funny mental image — and one of those quirky little moments that makes these trips memorable.
Navigation Crossed Wires
Back on the road, I saw Tony calling me mid-ride.
That’s always a strange feeling.
When I picked up, he said, “You guys overshot the turn!”
I hadn’t seen any turn in my nav app, and neither had Danny. But apparently, Tony and Alex had made a left that we missed. I raced up to catch Danny and led him to a nearby petrol station where we could wait.
After about 10–15 minutes, Tony and Alex arrived.
It turned out our navigation systems were showing slightly different routes, causing confusion. Still, we regrouped — and off we went again.
Rain, Rain… and More Rain
As we got closer to Malacca, the skies darkened, and the rain came.
Heavy. Unrelenting.
Tony pulled over, thinking I needed to pack away my camera (which I’d already done earlier at a traffic light). No one put on rain gear yet — we decided to press on.
Three minutes later, the rain intensified even more, and Tony led the group into a row of shophouses for shelter.
Unfortunately, Danny didn’t see us turn in — and just like that, we were split again.
A Rainy Reconnection
The rain was too heavy to backtrack, so we decided to stop separately and wait it out.
After about 20 minutes, the rain lightened — not stopped, but lightened enough.
We pushed on, and soon we reunited with Danny at a Petronas station.
The Airbnb Saves the Day
We debated what to do — wait out the rain, or push ahead and see if the Airbnb might let us check in early.
I made the call, and after a short delay, they confirmed the place was ready and we could check in anytime.
That was all the encouragement we needed.
When we arrived and saw the house, it felt like a weight lifted.
Now This Is a Homestay
Talk about contrast.
After last night’s disaster, this Airbnb was exactly what we needed.
A proper terrace house with parking for the bikes.
Clean, spacious, working air-con, no mould, no grime, no nonsense.
Everything just worked.
We took showers (yes, again, even after the rain), laid out our riding clothes to dry, and then headed into the city.
Coffee, Croissants, and Conversations
Our first stop was Calanthe Art Café, known for its 13 states coffee.
We had laksa, satay, samosas, fried squid sticks — and great coffee.
It was the perfect way to warm up and unwind.
We stayed there for what feels like more than an hour, chatting, relaxing, and I was working on the blog from the day before.
After that, we went looking for what we jokingly called “ang moh coffee.”
I knew just the place — French Brown — and led the group there.
French Brown Vibes
At French Brown, we ordered a round of espresso drinks — cappuccino, flat white, black — and Danny threw in truffle fries for good measure.
Then we got tempted by the croissants, which the café is known for. Danny hesitated, but I told him, “Just go order it. You won’t regret it.”
We talked about life, food, and plans.
At one point, I said, “You guys should come over for curry in May.”
And just like that — we had a future gathering planned.
Exploring Malacca on Foot
We walked through Jonker Street, taking in the historic architecture, colourful storefronts, and a mix of old and new that defines Malacca.
Tourists were everywhere — local and international — and the streets were alive.
At one point, I saw a man selling nasi lemak, rendang, and Malay cakes out of a motorcycle box.
Beautifully enterprising — and I was tempted to buy some.
We also walked past stalls renting out sarong kebayas, traditional outfits for tourists to wear while exploring the heritage zones.
It was kitschy, but charming.
Dinner and Card Games
Later, we headed to a Hakka restaurant for dinner. On the way, Danny pointed out places he’d been to — naan and butter chicken here, curry fish head there. It was like a personal food tour.
Dinner was great. Simple, comforting, and satisfying.
Back at the homestay, we decided to play cards — a game of Chua Tai Dee.
Some of us had forgotten the rules, so there was relearning, laughter, and lots of fun.
Eventually, it was time for Dinner Round Two — naan and butter chicken, of course.
Back at the house, Danny showered, geared up, and rode off into the night, heading home for work the next day.
“There’s only so much one can experience before the heart feels full. This journey has been just the right length.”
Full Hearts, Warm Cups, and the Night Before the Last
Today has been a really good day.
The riding was enjoyable, the roads were kind, and the weather — mostly — held up.
Riding at the back gave me a new kind of freedom. I didn’t feel the need to rush. I didn’t feel the need to check on anyone.
I just… rode. And it was good.
Having Danny with us today added something new.
Familiar and unfamiliar at once — but warm, natural, easy.
And now, with tomorrow being our last day, I find myself full.
Not longing for more.
Just grateful.
This journey has been exactly what I needed — a balance of solitude and connection, of road and rest, of reflection and friendship.
I can’t wait for Day 6 — and I can’t wait to go home.
Oh — and yes, we now have a catchphrase for WMLR 2025:
“Wait till you’re my age.”
(Courtesy of Alex.)
Where it came from?
We’ll leave that story for another time.
Day 4 – Bentong: A Day of Contrasts
I woke up early this morning — earlier than usual. Around 5-ish.
I decided to head straight for a shower… only to remember there’s no water heater in the common bathroom of this homestay. So yes — it was a cold shower.
Really cold.
But strangely, I enjoyed it. After a while, it didn’t feel all that icy anymore. It was brisk, refreshing — like a proper wake-up call. Once I was done, I changed, packed up my stuff, and sat at the dining table to write in my journal.
That’s when I heard the rumble.
At first, I wasn’t sure what it was… and then it hit me — rain. Not great news for the day’s ride, but we still had some time before we had to leave. So I carried on writing.
Soon enough, Alex got up and started getting ready as well.
By the time we all gathered downstairs to warm up our bikes and load our gear, the rain had stopped — perfect timing. The rain cooled down the morning, but let us prep in peace.
From there, we headed to a breakfast spot Tony had found nearby.
Breakfast this morning was close by — a place Tony found called Tong Lai Fak that specialises in wanton noodles. Yes, the name made us all chuckle, but the food? No joke. We rode over, parked easily, and got seated right away.
I ordered the red wine mee sua, while the other two went for wanton noodles. We added a side of fried wantons and our usual kopi-o-kosong. And I’ve got to say — breakfast today was incredible. Rich flavours, perfectly cooked noodles, crispy wantons, and great coffee. A fantastic way to start the day.
After breakfast, we hit the road. It was a solid stretch of riding before our first fuel stop, and soon after, we merged onto the expressway. We cruised through Ipoh, and then came that iconic stretch — the long uphill climb, the tunnel, and then the winding descent. That section of the expressway never gets old.
With skies looking a little threatening, I had packed away my camera and didn’t take any photos — just stayed focused and kept moving. Before long, we found ourselves at a rest stop near Tanjung Malim.
It was important that we took a proper break here — the heat had been relentless, and the exhaustion was starting to catch up with us. The expressway ride had been smooth and relatively uneventful, and we’d made up good time. From this point, we had just about an hour or so left to ride to Bentong, so we gave ourselves permission to linger.
Alex bought us some iced coffee and peanut butter waffles, and we shared the snack while sitting at one of the shaded tables. We talked about everything and nothing, watched other bikers roll in, admired their machines, and just took a moment to pause. It was one of those quiet, simple joys on a ride — not about the destination, just the shared moment.
Eventually, we geared up again and rolled out — exiting the expressway and moving onto the trunk roads.
That led us to one of the most enjoyable parts of the day: a climb up toward Genting Highlands, followed by a winding descent. The temperature dropped as we went up, and a gentle drizzle started falling. Coming down was slow, with tight corners and traffic, but the air was cool and the ride was a joy — a welcome contrast to the earlier heat.
At the bottom, we stopped for fuel, and then I brought everyone to one of my favourites: Restoran Kampung at Bukit Tinggi. This place never disappoints. I ordered my go-to: ikan patin in a claypot, and it was, as always, fantastic. Everyone enjoyed the food, and I was glad we made the stop.
We sat there for a good while — eating, chatting, and soaking it all in — before finally getting back onto the expressway. Another 30 or 40 km later, we rolled into Bentong with ease.
The Homestay from Hell
When we arrived at the Bukit Bentong Homestay we were glad there was space to park our bikes.
However, things took a turn when we went in to unpack. I walked into my room and genuinely couldn’t believe what I saw. It felt like a prison cell.
The walls were stained, and not in a light, accidental way — they looked like they hadn’t been cleaned in years. The head of the bed had a cement ledge that was also stained — with what looked like tea, coffee, rust… who knows. There was a mouldy, damp smell in the air. No place to hang anything, no room to move. Plus, the bathroom door does not close properly which meant the bedroom floor gets flooded too.
Tony’s room was no better.
Outside, we noticed cobwebs, and the water filter looked like it was filled with sand. The kettle? Brown and gunky inside. This place was just… awful. One of the worst we’ve stayed at, for sure.
We didn’t want to hang around too long. We tossed our clothes in the washing machine and got ready to get out of there. Danny, Tony’s friend, was joining us today, and when he arrived, we headed into town together.
Sweet Relief in Sweet July
We wandered around Bentong, but it was still scorching hot. Not many shops were open, so we made a beeline for the first decent café we could find. We ended up at a spot called Sweet July, located on the second floor of a shophouse.
It was clearly an Instagram café — designed for a younger crowd, with pastel tones, quirky furniture, and photo-ready corners. But it was cool, quiet, and exactly what we needed.
I had a strawberry yoghurt ice drink (so good I ordered a second), while Alex went for mango, and Tony and Danny each had some kind of lime-lemon concoction that arrived in literal mini pails. We shared French toast and egg tarts Danny had brought along from Ipoh.
The staff were kind, the vibe was relaxed, and we all felt human again.
Exploring Bentong’s Food Scene
By the time we stepped out again, the sun had mellowed and the street vendors were setting up. We passed stalls offering bak kut teh, Thai-style dishes, fried noodles, yong tau foo, chee cheong fun, and more.
We even wandered into an old market building, up on the second floor. It felt like an oven inside, but the charm was unmistakable. A row of old-school tailor shops lined the corridor, some still working away quietly. These places had clearly been there for decades. It was like a little time capsule.
Then, the rain started again — and we ducked into Wok Express for dinner.
We ordered four dishes and a plate of fried rice, telling the lady to prepare the rice for three. When it arrived, it looked like it could feed six. Either she didn’t believe us or thought we looked extra hungry.
The portions were massive, but the food was excellent. Full and happy, we took a walk outside (the rain had stopped by then) and decided to grab one last snack — a plate of char kway teow — before heading back to the homestay.
Back at the homestay, the proprietor offered to switch my room, but the alternative wasn’t any better. I figured I might as well stick with what I had — I’d already unpacked, after all. Because of the rain, all our clothes had gotten wet again. So, we rewashed them and found ways to hang everything indoors.
Tony and Alex were legends, helping figure out how to string up makeshift drying areas. Despite the challenges, the three of us just… made it work.
Drying Out in More Ways Than One
I don’t know — today was a strange one.
The ride was lovely. The café, the food, the company — all great.
But this homestay really pissed me off. I don’t understand how someone can rent out a place in such terrible condition and think that’s okay. It’s just not. It’s not clean. It’s not acceptable. It’s not decent.
But I’m grateful.
I’m grateful we could laugh it off, grit our teeth, and get on with it. I’m grateful that even on a day with a pretty terrible place to sleep, I got to explore a new town, eat fantastic food, and share it all with great people.
“This journey isn’t perfect — and that’s exactly what makes it real, and worth it.”
I’m not wishing this trip to end. Not at all.
This homestay? A blip.
The rest of the journey? Still amazing.
We’ve had great conversations.
We’ve seen new things.
We’ve shared a whole lot of food and a whole lot of laughs.
That’s what I’ll take with me.
Tomorrow, we ride again.
Day 3 – From Kuala Terengganu to Gerik: Rain, Ridges, and Reflections
We knew Day 3 was going to be a long ride, so we decided the night before to get an earlier start. By 7:30 a.m., we were all packed and ready, rolling out from Kuala Terengganu under a cool morning sky. Traffic was light, the air crisp, and the road ahead full of promise.
We rode past quiet bridges and wide rivers, soaking in the beauty of the morning. Eventually, we veered off to fuel up, then got back on the road toward Machang, a little town where I was hoping to try their famous nasi dagang or nasi kerabu.
It was about two hours to get there, and while the ride was pleasant, we arrived only to find the shop I had in mind was closed. So we rode around for a bit and discovered there was a morning street market going on in the town. Riding around the area we found a Chinese coffee shop called Kedai Kopi Aik Mui and decided to eat there as we had our gear with us and it would be really difficult to get street food and eat on the go. They served chicken rice, and we didn’t hold back — ordering two plates to share between the three of us. It was a lot of chicken. Just to be clear, those two plates held an entire kampung chicken! Good thing it was well past 10 a.m., so let’s just call it brunch.
After our meal, we made our way to a BHP station in Jeli, right before the climb into the Titiwangsa mountain range. We fuelled up and began the ascent. The road was beautiful, the weather cool, the traffic light — everything was lining up.
Until it wasn’t.
I felt the first few drops and hoped it was just a light drizzle. But out of nowhere, the skies opened. Heavy, pouring rain came crashing down. I had to pull over to stash my camera and bag into the panniers. A few minutes later, Tony and Alex caught up. Tony suited up in his rain gear. Alex, however, made the bold decision to ride on without his — his raincoat buried deep in his luggage. By then, he was already soaked.
We pushed on and eventually made it to a rest stop at the top of the range, where we stayed for a while. Coffee, snacks, and a break from the rain. Alex picked up a few childhood treats, including a satay fish snack that brought back memories.
While we were there, I met a fellow biker — an older gentleman, maybe in his late 60s or early 70s, from Petaling Jaya. He was on his own solo loop ride through northern Peninsular Malaysia on a BMW G310 GS. He’d already been to Kuantan and Kota Bharu and was heading to Butterworth next, then up to Perlis and down through Taiping. A simple, solo adventure — inspiring in its own quiet way.
After about an hour, the rain slowed to a light drizzle and we carried on. The descent was beautiful. The drizzle faded, the sun came out, and for a while, my gear was actually drying out. But the weather had other plans — we got hit with more showers off and on as we made our way through the flatter stretches.
By the time we arrived in Gerik, it was pouring again — and we were drenched. Thankfully, our homestay for the night was spacious, with three good rooms, a washing machine, and great ventilation. Everything we needed to clean up and dry out.
We showered, changed, and spent some time lounging around, chatting, laughing — just enjoying the simplicity of having arrived.
At some point in all that downtime, something unexpected happened. I cleaned my helmet.
I don’t even know what came over me. Tony casually suggested, “Hey, we could use this dish soap to clean our helmets — polish out all the scuffs.” And for some reason, I actually did it.
I tried it. I cleaned my helmet.
What is happening?
Yesterday I was setting up my panniers, today I’m scrubbing down my gear.
I’m a changed man.
Eventually, we decided to go for a walk. First stop — the supermarket. The fish section greeted us immediately: shiny, fresh, silky-looking fish. Giant squid. Patin, my favourite, selling for just RM7.99/kg. That’s crazy cheap.
We wandered the aisles and stumbled on some nostalgic snacks and a pack of Maggi Pedas Giler noodles — and an idea sparked: let’s cook dinner tonight.
But first, we stumbled upon a nearby street market — far more vibrant and varied than the one the night before. Stalls selling everything from tau foo fa, deep-fried chicken cutlets, yong tau foo, noodles, cut fruits, and even a full-on butcher displaying an entire cow’s head. You don’t see that every day.
After soaking it all in, we stopped for coffee at Coffee Diver — a laid-back spot with interesting local brews. We sat outside, unwound, and watched the world go by.
Then it was time to prep dinner. We picked up noodles, sausages, fish balls, veggies, and eggs — and realised we were missing seasoning. One last shop run to get garlic, stock cubes, and the essentials, and we were back in business.
Dinner was simple and satisfying. Home-style comfort food, cooked in our little homestay kitchen. Tony even hard-boiled the remaining eggs — just in case we wanted a snack later.
To end the night, we took one last stroll around the neighbourhood and popped into a place called Richiamo Coffee. Two coffees, one tea, and a doughnut later, we called it a night. A really, really good one.
Drying Off and Thinking Things Through
It’s been an interesting day.
And honestly, I’m not sure if it’s the kind of day I enjoy or don’t enjoy.
The roads were beautiful. There was almost no traffic. The bike ran great. The company? The best.
But the rain… the rain dampens the mood a little — especially when you’re riding up winding mountain roads you’ve been looking forward to all year. It felt like a shame.
And yet… the rain cooled everything down. It made the rest of the day more comfortable. So do I like it? Or don’t like it?
Maybe both.
“Rain or not, the road, the bike, the conversations, and the friendship made it all worthwhile.”
What I do know is this: the ride, the company, the little surprises — they all added up to something memorable.
Cooking dinner together was a first. Not restaurant quality, sure, but deeply satisfying. Just three friends in a quiet homestay, winding down the day with food we made ourselves. It felt real. It felt good.
I might want to do that again someday.
All in all, a fantastic day. I’m looking forward to tomorrow.
Day 2 – Kuantan to Kuala Terengganu
Day Two began early — or rather, dark. I had stayed up late the night before writing up the blog, and by the time I got to bed it was already 1 a.m. But somehow, I still woke up at 4… then again at 5. At that point, I decided I might as well get going. I slipped into my morning rhythm — journalling quietly before getting ready and heading downstairs to meet Tony and Alex.
We rode out for breakfast, navigating the weekday morning rush hour of Kuantan. It was a slow ride through heavy traffic, but we eventually found our way to a little spot tucked deep inside a residential neighbourhood. If it wasn’t for Google Maps, we’d never have found it.
The place was called Sin Chun Curry Noodles (新村咖里面) — a tiny stall nestled in a row of terrace houses. They served old-style curry Yong Tau Foo noodles, where you pick your ingredients and they combine it with curry gravy and noodles of your choice. I had mine with kway teow — and it was glorious. Comforting, spicy, rich. A fantastic start to the day.
After breakfast, we hit the road and made our way north toward Kuala Terengganu. It was a relatively straightforward ride — wide, open roads, mostly straight, with occasional long bends to keep things interesting. Traffic was light, the weather hot, and the ride smooth. We stopped for a quick petrol break to cool off, especially since Alex’s Harley was the thirstiest of the bunch. I grabbed us some ice cream — a welcome little treat in the heat.
Eventually, we reached our homestay for the night — Homestay Cik Phua, tucked away in Gelong Bilal. The kampung itself was unique, with many small streams running through it — a quiet, flowing presence that set it apart from other villages we’ve stayed in. It gave the place a distinct character — peaceful, refreshing, and a little unexpected.
Once we settled in, we headed to the Mydin shopping complex for lunch. It had an old-school feel, but the air-conditioning was very welcome. We found an outdoor food court and spotted a stall selling Nasi Kandar. All three of us ordered it — biryani rice with a variety of curries and dishes piled on. The real magic of Nasi Kandar, of course, lies in the mix of gravies — done right, it becomes a flavour bomb of the best kind. This one wasn’t perfect, but it still hit the spot.
After lunch, we wandered through the Giant supermarket. I spotted some nostalgic favourites, like rows of Sunquick orange juice concentrate — something I hadn’t seen since childhood. There was also a fantastic array of spices, some whole, some ground, all laid out in bins. The smells were amazing — and then came that unmistakable scent of dried seafood. As a kid, I hated that smell. But now? It reminded me of home, of my mum and grandma cooking. These ingredients bring depth to dishes — and now, maturity has taught me to appreciate that.
We roamed the fruit section, laughed at something called a Sarawak Pot (none of us knew what it was — but it amused us enough to snap a photo), and eventually returned to the homestay to rest.
We washed our riding clothes, and unfortunately discovered that ants had gotten into one of the tables… and into Tony’s helmet. Watching him rinse and flush out the entire helmet with water was a sight to behold. It was practically a waterfall coming out the other side. Meanwhile, we found some Kiwi shoe polish and Tony gave his boots a good shine — they looked amazing after.
Later in the afternoon, I took some time to install a little upgrade to my panniers. It’s something I’d usually get help with, but today I decided to do it myself. I added internal netting compartments, which now give me extra space to store small items. All three panniers are now that little bit better. Feels good.
As evening came, we rode out to Chinatown — a unique part of Kuala Terengganu, considering it’s a Muslim-majority city in a Muslim-majority state. We’ve been here before, but this time I wanted to try something new. We ended up at Golden Dragon Restaurant, a humble place that served up four delicious Chinese dishes at very reasonable prices.
We wandered around afterward, stumbled across a lively night market, and soaked in the sights, sounds, and smells of street food. I tried something called Popiah Carbonara — it sounded strange, and it tasted… well, interesting. We spotted a shop called Rasa Happy that served cendol, including a version with durian. We didn’t go for that one, but it was cool to see.
Eventually, we returned to the homestay to wind down. The day had been full, but not rushed. Meaningful, yet relaxed.
Oh yes…I also washed my windshield. It was such a rare occurrence Tony felt compelled to take a picture.
And somewhere between the walking and talking and eating and laughing, we started thinking about Day 3. Originally, we planned to head to Bukit Mertajam to visit the Harley-Davidson dealer for Alex’s headlamp issue — but as luck would have it, we managed to solve the problem ourselves.
So now, the plan is to head westward, across the Titiwangsa mountain range, toward the town of Gerik. It’s going to be a long ride — maybe six or seven hours — winding mountain roads that are both beautiful and demanding. But that’s what makes it exciting.
“There’s something magical about arriving somewhere new on a motorcycle — even familiar places feel different when you ride in.”
There’s something magical about arriving somewhere new on a motorcycle. Even in places I’ve been before, like Kuala Terengganu, riding in always makes it feel different. More immediate. More alive.
I don’t know what tomorrow will bring. That’s the best part.
Day 1 – Singapore to…Kuantan
We started early in the morning, while it was still dark. I met Tony and Alex at the car park at Jurong McDonald’s.
We gathered quickly, exchanged a few words, and just like that — we were off.
It was the perfect morning to ride. Cool, dark, light traffic. The crossing at the Tuas Checkpoint was smooth — surprisingly so. There were barely any motorcycles out, and we breezed through in no time at all. A quick fuel stop, then we were on our way towards breakfast.
The ride up was uneventful in the best way. No drama, no issues. Just smooth roads and time to reacquaint ourselves with our steeds. None of us had ridden in a while — Tony, almost a year. Myself, several months. Alex… maybe even longer. This was a reawakening of sorts.
We eventually arrived at Fang Hui, a coffee shop nestled inside a pineapple plantation. I’d been there before with Amelia and remembered how good the breakfast was. It didn’t disappoint. We were served rich, thick black coffee — no sugar, just the way I like it — and some of the best traditional toast I’ve had in a while. Charcoal-grilled, generously buttered, and layered with kaya. Soft-boiled kampung eggs completed the set. A breakfast worth riding for. Incidentally, it was also during breakfast that we decided on our destination – Kuantan!
Afterwards, we rode through a bit of the plantation to get back to the main road and began making our way across the Malaysian peninsula. Traffic started to pick up as we got closer to Kuantan, and the heat began to rise. The afternoon sun made the ride more draining than expected, but the roads remained smooth and the mood high.
We did have one slight detour — Alex’s bike, as cool as it looks, has a limited range, and we knew we’d have to find fuel around the 200 km mark. The route we’d chosen was more of a rural trunk road, and petrol stations were few and far between. At around 230 km, we spotted a sign pointing left toward a petrol station — 6 km in.
Unfortunately, we didn’t make the turn, thinking the station would be somewhere 6 km further ahead on the same road. Eventually, with fuel starting to run low, we made the call to U-turn and backtrack. Thankfully, we found it without issue, filled up, and got back on the road. Just one of those little things that reminds you — riding is as much about paying attention as it is about enjoying the view.
We reached The Charisma Hotel in Kuantan and checked in. A corner unit shophouse — three floors, we took three rooms. My room was simple but perfect. King-sized bed, attached bathroom, strong air-conditioning, hot water, clean towels — what more could one ask for?
Alex had some trouble with his headlamp, so Tony got to work on it. After a long while of fiddling, we realised it was an intermittent problem — something we couldn’t fix on the spot. We might have to make a stop at a Harley-Davidson dealership at some point on this trip.
Lunch was just around the corner at Lotus, a local shopping centre with a food court. I had Ayam Penyet. Tony went for chicken cutlet with fries. Alex had salmon. Maybe it was the hunger, maybe it was the food — either way, we cleaned our plates without a trace. It hit the spot.
And then, of course, we went to Tea Live — now a WMLR tradition. A ride just isn’t complete without a stop there.
Later in the afternoon, we wandered around the shops. I found myself drawn to all sorts of cute and quirky things — I don’t know why, but they captivated me. Something about being in a different space puts your mind in a different gear.
Dinner was at Restoran HLS, a Chinese restaurant that turned out to be a gem. We had Pao Fan, a hearty rice dish cooked in broth and in earthenware pots, filled to the brim with prawns, crabs, and flavour. We added some steamed ladies’ fingers and braised pork belly — the kind that melts in your mouth. It was all superb. The restaurant had medals on display — well-earned, it seems.
After dinner, we walked to the Kuantan Esplanade. The evening was cool and dry, families were out, and it felt good to just stroll. We saw the Kuantan 188 Tower — tall, glowing, impressive. There’s a skywalk up there, but it was closed. Maybe next time.
We kept walking and stumbled into a beautifully lit backstreet, the backs of shophouses painted with creative murals — reminiscent of Penang, but with their own unique charm. We took many photos before winding down the day with some dessert — a mix of waffles and icy goodness, shared as always.
“The road was smooth, the coffee was hot, and the company was solid. Day 1 delivered.”
It’s been a wonderful start to this year’s WMLR. It feels great to be back on the bike — to hear the engine, to feel the throttle, to ride long, quiet roads with time to think, to reflect, and just be in the moment. These rides are a gift.
I’m grateful to be doing this again — and even more so to be doing it with Tony and Alex. They were part of the very first WMLR ride, and though it’s been years since we last rode together, today felt like no time had passed at all.
Here’s to Day 2.
Packed and Ready… Almost
I keep telling myself I’m not excited.
It’s just the next instalment of something we do each year. It’ll be spontaneous. It’ll be fun. I’m looking forward to it. But excited? No, not really.
But that’s not the truth.
The truth is… I’m excited. And I’m getting more so with every passing minute. My heart races a little when I think about it. Sleep has been slightly elusive — not in a stressful way, but in that way where your mind starts riding ahead of you, playing out the curves and the places you haven’t seen yet.
It’s interesting. After so many iterations of WMLR, I’m still excited — almost as excited as the very first one. The promise of adventure never gets old. It’s irresistible.
“The promise of adventure never gets old. It’s irresistible.“
Today, I packed.
I told myself I’d keep it minimal this time, and I’ve stuck to that. Other than the essentials — my toolkit and jump starter — I’m not bringing any other tools. My bike’s in good shape, and my riding companions are carrying theirs too. Between us, we should be covered. Riding in Malaysia means help is usually not far away anyway.
Clothes? Also light. Just one set for the evenings, and a plan to wash my riding base layers and evening clothes each night. I have a spare base layer set in case things don’t dry in time. That should do. And, as always, I’ve packed my sports towel — even though I’ve never had to use it. It’s become part of the ritual.
But I’m not just packing for the road. I’m packing for the soul too.
My watercolour sketching kit. My journal. My camera. These are the things that help me slow down — not just physically, though sometimes that too — but mentally. They let me take in the places we pass through, the colours, the quiet. They help me listen to the world outside, and the world within.
These journeys are rewarding because they shift the environment so completely. It’s in that shift that I find clarity, rest, and new perspectives. And I want to leave space for those things to come.
So yes — I am as ready as I can be.
The only things left unpacked are my iPhone and my iPad. Do I need the iPad? No. But I’m bringing it anyway. It’s handy for showing photos and figuring things out with the gang — usually over coffee. That’s my excuse. Haha.
So… I’m ready.
A Night Ride Before the Ride
Last night, I took the bike out for a spin — not a long one, but exactly the kind of ride that reminds me why I love doing this.
I went from West Coast all the way to Yishun to pick up a lens from someone. It could’ve been a simple errand. But the moment I started rolling, it turned into something more. The night air was perfect — cool, still, with that quiet energy that night riding in Singapore can have.
The bike felt flawless. Smooth. Responsive. Like he knew the big ride is coming and wanted to show he’s ready. I had my favourite music in my ears, and everything just clicked — the roads, the rhythm, the textures.
“Everything just clicked — the roads, the rhythm, the textures.”
It was one of those moments where the city fades and you’re just in the zone. Relaxed. Present. Content.
I topped up my tyres on the way back — one more step in the slow, steady preparation for Wednesday. But in truth, last night’s ride was more than prep. It was a reminder. A little preview of the freedom, the solitude, and the quiet joy that riding always brings.
The countdown continues — and nights like this make the wait even sweeter.
I can’t wait to get started!
The Countdown Begins: Preparing for the Ride
There’s something electric about the days leading up to a ride. The way your mind drifts to the road ahead, the itch in your hands to twist the throttle, and that subtle shift — where everyday life starts to fade and something deeper begins to stir.
With the next ride starting next Wednesday, the feeling is no longer just anticipation. It’s activation.
Preparation has entered a different level of consciousness. It’s no longer a checklist — it’s a ritual.
I’ve been spending time with my motorcycle, making sure he’s ready — mechanically and electronically. Every sound, every response, every flick of a switch matters. There’s a silent conversation happening each time I check him over. Trust needs to be earned again, and I want him to feel just as ready as I am.
I’ve been going through the documentation, sorting out the essentials, and thinking carefully about what to bring. This time, I want to keep it light — minimalist. Just enough clothes, just the right tools, and only what I need to stay sharp and free. The less I carry, the more space I leave for discovery.
One thing I am definitely bringing along is my sketching kit — a simple sketchbook, pen, and a small set of watercolours. It’s my way of slowing down, of truly immersing myself in the environment. Sketching helps me take in the details I might otherwise ride past — the curve of a mountain, the quiet of a village, the colour of a moment. It’s something I find deeply relaxing, and it brings a different kind of richness to the ride.
This isn’t just about packing bags or tightening bolts. It’s about tuning myself to the road ahead. Calming the noise. Focusing the energy. Letting the ride take shape in my mind before the wheels even roll.
The road is calling — and it’s almost time to answer.
